DJ6-My model is fuller at the bust area, therefore the cups that I made were actually too small for her. I pinned it down and drew in the areas that need growth. In total, around 3-4 cm growth are needed on each side. Experiencing with different cup shapes will also help when doing a custom cup size.
DJ6-The cups that I used were from the balcony bras (Italian book). There are two patterns; the "gained" and the "reduced" patterns. Since my fit model is fuller at the bust, I chose the gained pattern to accommodate the room needed for bust area.
DJ6-During fitting, I found that there was a lot of excess fabric on the hip area. Therefore I took it in on the pattern to have a more cheeky style. I also cut away the back too elongate the body shape.
2) Since my bodice is asymmetrical, for the back I attached a piece of fabric at the shoulder seam and then drew the shape I wanted. To create the right shaping, I put the draped shoulder piece over top to see if it would be a flattering panel shape once the piece was draped over the back.
DJ6-My fit model is very tall and she has a longer torso. Therefore, I cut through the waist to allow growth. Once I cut through the body suit, there was instantly around a 2" growth which means that the original block was way too short.
DJ2-This Issey Miyake skirt has a side cowl that creates a beautiful drape. This technique is done by creating folds from one SS that extends to the other SS. This is the method which cowl is draped closer to the side seam, thus folds are shallower and cowl has a drapey/ sleek silhouette. This technique is suitable for long skirt to create a subtle design detail.
How To Turn Your Dress Ideas Into Reality By Making A Custom Pattern