Madeleine Vionnet Dress, 1922 Silk crepe georgette with lamé edging. Arizona Costume Institute . Vionnet, a genius seamstress who built her dresses from the ground up so to speak, by cutting fabric on the bias, directly on her models. The final look was a unique feminine drape which heralded a new look that emphasized freedom of movement and femininity. Even with the popular garcon look [ flat chested and tubular ] the Vionnet dress was unmistakably feminine.
Dresses by Callot Soeurs feature long fluid versions of the vestigial sleeves seen on Ottoman coats. The Callots are more widely known for their Chinoiserie, but their Persian-Turkish styles often share the same sense of Chinese color