Chasing Mavericks: When young Jay Moriarity discovers that the mythic Mavericks surf break, one of the biggest waves on Earth, exists just miles from his Santa Cruz home, he enlists the help of local legend Frosty Hesson to train him to survive it.
"People ask me all the time 'What does Live Like Jay mean?' It doesn't mean to live like Jay did. You don't need to be this gnarly athlete and big-wave rider. It means to live to be who you are meant to be, and to be true to yourself.
Read Surfing Mavericks: The Unofficial Biography of Jay Moriarity by Ryan August with Kobo. Jay Moriarity was a big wave surfer whose positive spirit, relentless dedication, and respect for his sport earned him .